Monday, August 18, 2014

Vogue 8571 Red Dress Done!

Vogue 8571 DONE
So...let's recap.

I picked up the pattern at MPB Day 2013 last year
and thought it would be fun to wear it to MPB Day this year.
I finished it 5 days after MPB Day 2014 occurred, oops!
Vogue 8571 DONE
I purchased this fabric in San Diego at a swap meet last November with Elizabeth.  It has crosswise and lengthwise stretch.  It is a stretchy and synthetic, the kind of fabric I love because it means little-to-no wrinkles!!

Yes, the color is the same as the pattern envelope, in a case of "let's make exactly the same dress as shown on the pattern cover"

Vogue 8571 DONE
I really love the gathers in the back and the front.

Vogue 8571 DONE
The mug shot

My usual work photog and my backup work photog were both out of the office on Friday, so I had to ask another coworker.  She picked this conifer as "it's a scary looking tree."

My boss said, "it looks more complicated than what you usually make."

If there was something I could angst over, I did. I started out with a 14 bodice but after my initial runthrough I recut it as an 8 in the shoulders and neckline to effectively bring it up an inch.  Previous posts showed how the bodice was overall too long.  but I think I should have scooped the armholes a bit. I cut the side seams as 12 initially, but honestly who knows what size they are now.  I really struggled with the fit and resewed the side seams many times.  The skirt had too much volume in the front but looked ok from the back.  I took a triangle shaped wedge out of the front side seams which reduced the skirt volume but now the back shows from the front.

I also took a 1.5" swayback adjustment out of the skirt, which was probably too much, I futzed with the gathering too much,  I undid and redid the side seams multiple times, even taking out serger stitches.   I had trouble with serger tension when I sewed the side seams.  The first time they looked great, but the second time I forgot the DF and it was a wavy mess, blah blah blah.

I did bind the armholes using Amanda's method  of using bias tape to finish and that worked out pretty well.  It's just that I should have scooped the armholes more after reducing the shoulder-to-pit length by an inch.

Vogue 8571 DONE
Vogue 8571
On Izzy the day after I wore it
Vogue 8571
Inside out
Vogue 8571
My "signature"
Vogue 8571
Close-up of the gathers
Vogue 8571
Serged raw edge, then blind can see the texture of the fabric really well here.
Buddy and Izzy and Vogue 8571
My god-cat and Izzy.

Overall I love the dress and wonder why this one didn't catch on in the sewing blogger world when it was released in 2009.

I am on staycation now and have sewn 2 lace tanks for the gym and refashioned 2 shirts into one for the gym. I want to make this dress again in aqua blue and I'm hoping it will go faster next time....but I won't do it this week.  There are a few "easy" items I want to make....let's see how it goes!  I will be blogging them one-by-one for maximum reading pleasure.

Be well!

Monday, August 11, 2014

MPB Day 2014 Recap: A celebration of all things Peter Lappin

I. love. this. photo!  I stole it from Suzanne's Instagram--thank you Beau Baby!

This was my third MPB Day.   It was the largest and the most man-filled MPB Day ever, as Peter pointed out in his recap.

I had a rough night the night before and felt terrible when I woke up.  I thought about skipping the event entirely, but then I read a comment on my Friday night post from Mae who said she's in Australia and wished she could go.  So I dragged myself out of bed and went partly for her, a woman I've never met from a place I've never been, because I could go if I just got over myself.  And I'm so glad I did!

I wore Vogue 1351 that I made last summer (since I didn't finish my MPB Day dress on time) and carried this bag I made last November.

I did a little pre-MPB Day shopping at the City Quilter, then joined the group at the FIT Museum where we saw "Exposed", an exhibit about the history of lingerie.  There I ran into Tomasa, aka TJSews on PR.  I hadn't seen her since PR Weekend NYC 2012, and it was great to spend the day with her!

We all ate lunch at Panera, where Kathy of spottedroo joined us with her newborn and her sister.  I'm sorry we didn't get to talk more or get a picture, as I've read her blog a very long time and enjoyed it so much!  And I met Enrique of Enrique Sews.  What a talented guy--sewing his own dress shirts and skinny ties at night after he spends his days working on cars.  I also met Paula of Getting Things Sewn--she was the woman with the index cards with her fabric swatches in Peter's recap!!  We dumped, I mean swapped, our unwanted patterns right there on the second floor of Panera.  I brought my friend's unwanted patterns and took!  (well, maybe "win for me" as I'm guessing poor Michael had to drag the remainder home.)

Me with the King of Sewing Blogs, Mr. MPB himself
Crowding around Mr MPB post-Panera, to give directions for the afternoon
Tomasa and me with the garment worker. Tomasa just posted her first blog post, on why she sews. Great topic--I might have to cover that in a blog post of my own as it's a topic I struggle with every time I have trouble fitting.
My chunky metal zipper, cut to 60cm for the Maria Denmark Lotta Bag, descends from the second floor at Pacific Trim
Reach for the zipper! Reach!  Pacific Trimming is my favorite store on the planet, but the lack of a/c makes for a brief visit in the summer.
The scene at Paron, everything was 40% off and I wanted it all but showed shocking restraint. If you are a long time reader of my blog, you know that buying only 2 pieces of fabric *is* shocking restraint.
Tomasa only bought one piece of fabric, this green Irish Linen at Paron's she saw on a prior trip.
Loved this description!!
I know, I know, more blue non-wrinkly non-natural fiber fabric was purchased! But it wasn't a ponte knit and it has amazing drape.

Anyway, Tomasa and I hit up Paron (twice, I had to go back for a second piece of fabric), Pacific Trimming, Daytona Trim, SIL Thread, and, um, was that it?  We also tried to find my favorite chocolate shop near Bryant Park but it was gone!  I didn't go to Mood this trip but heard that Tim Gunn had been there that day.    Rats!  We finished off the day at Bryant Park, where more peeps than ever from the original morning group met up to show off purchases and recount the day.  Peter is correct; stamina is increasing with every MPB Day.

My purchases.  The green tag had my shopping list and swatches of stretch lace, for color matching FOE.

I'm going to make a denim jacket and these compass shank buttons from Pacific Trimming are perfect.  I didn't want the boring star ones...

Black tailoring wax (which looks gigantic without scale) and square snaps that I have been coveting since PR Weekend 2012 from Daytona Trim.

I wonder what musical this is from...I guess I could google it...Peter gave us a list of stores on the back of sheet music.  The lyrics on mine start out innocent but become a bit risque....

Thank you Peter for getting the sewing community together in this way every year!  and thank you for all your sewing inspiration all year long!

Be well!

Sunday, August 10, 2014

Seriously, getting closer.

The finish line is in sight.
Just need to hand sew the facing to the interior and it'll be done.
This one is more of a wearable muslin than the amazing perfection I was hoping for, but I want to make it again, in aqua blue, and hopefully the whole thing will go faster next time.

I can probably wear this one to work but not to any sewing meetups.  You know what I mean.

See you during the week, for a recap of MPB Day and the grand finale of this dress.

Be well!!

Friday, August 8, 2014

V8571, still not done....

You're probably thinking, it doesn't look any different from last time...but it is different!!

I worked on the dress for hours tonight and it's still not done.

I was really struggling with the gathers, then with the fit.    And then I somehow forgot the setting on my serger to make nice side seams so the side seam was stretched out and puckered and  terrible and I had to unpick the whole seam. Always write down the serger settings!!!

The armholes are now bound; the facing is sewn to the neckband but the understitching looks terrible so after working almost non-stop on this dress tonight from 5:05 til 9:45pm I decided to stop there.  I can't unpick the understitching and re-understitch and hand sew the facing to the neckband inside and figure out the serger settings for a nice side seam serge and cut the bottom appropriately and then blind hem it all by 8:50am tmw.

I'll wear my favorite Vogue 1351  instead to MPB Day.

See you there, maybe??

p.s. god-cat says hello!

Sunday, August 3, 2014

More Vogue 8571 + cat + new-to-me patterns

Vogue 8571 continuing on Sunday
Sooooo....continuing on......unhemmed, unbound neckline and armholes....
Vogue 8571 continuing on Sunday
Swayback solved
Vogue 8571 continuing on Sunday

You're not seeing the full front-head-on-view because it's very wide somehow.  I think I probably need to come in another half inch on each side and then it'll be good.

Vogue 8571 continuing on Sunday
I think I'm not touching the bodice though (I have now serged the insides), so I can bind the armholes and also install the neckline facing. Then I'll probably baste the sides from the empire seamline down and see how it looks and see if I need to shave off some more SA. Then hem.
Vogue 8571 continuing on Sunday

Yes, I sure know how to make a simple dress into an epic project.
Vogue 8571 continuing on Sunday
I spent a large amount of time today obsessing over those gathers.  Cranking up the needle tension to 6 on my serger helped get the gathers I generally wanted.

The good news is I'm taking Wednesday off, so I think I can finish it then.  Or maybe even work on it a little each night this week.

I loved your guesses as to why I want to get this dress done before next Saturday.  Vanessa was the closest with her "special event" guess.  It's because I'm wearing it to MPB Day!  Or hope to, barring any missteps.  I need to make my list of notions to buy on Saturday.

Vogue 8571 continuing on Sunday

In other news, my god-cat is here, and he came bearing the patterns he was unable to sell at his yard sale!  How sweet of him!!  Many of the patterns were new-to-me but some I had sewn up, ha ha.

I have now cat proofed the sewing room, or so I think.  Lots of dangers for a cat in a sewing room, for sure.  Trumbelina, to steal someone else's cat & sewing joke, Buddy is my largest pattern weight.

Be well!

Saturday, August 2, 2014

V8571: I went with plan C, now in progress



I loved reading all your comments on my last post!!  Especially Trumbelina's about temper tantrums and cookies and balling the dress up and throwing it in a corner.  :)

I went with plan C, which was the majority vote.  I started over and cut out a new bodice from scratch, with the shoulder and armholes and neckline as a size 8 and side seams as size 12 (instead of everything as 14).  Before I did that, though, I basted the side seams as if I had cut a size 12 and suddenly the dress was looking a LOT better.

It looks even better (as in the pix above and below) with the 8/12 combo.

The underbust seam is actually under my bust.  And when I'm wearing it, the gathers in the back are flat and not droopy.


I need to fix the gathers (front and back) and swayback pooling but this was just a Q&D basting to see if I was going in the right direction, I think the answer may be yes.  I don't want to jinx myself though!!

I plan on working on this tmw afternoon before my god-cat shows up for 2 weeks at my house for some suburban fun.  Or he can help me work on it.   But I need to do more cleaning too.  Hmmm... I really want to get this dress done before next weekend, can you guess why?

Be well!

Thursday, July 31, 2014

V8571: Damage Control Mode: What would you do?

It's too big and the bodice is too long.
Here you can see how much lower than my bust the dress bustline is....

Tonight I finally basted the skirt to the bodice, sewed the side seams and discovered two issues:

1.  The bodice length is too long!  The gathered bodice is almost 2"-ish below my bust line.  When I pinned the bodice on my dress form, and even looked at it on myself, I had not noticed these issues before....but now that the skirt is on it's really obvious.


2.  I prematurely bound the armhole, thinking "I'll just finish it off when I sew the side seams".
Um, no, that is not going to work.  The side seams need to be finished and then the armhole needs to be bound.

So, I got out my binder clips and clipped the shoulder seam up an inch, and it looks a lot better but then the armholes are not deep enough.
clipped V8571
There's a sway back issue too but since there is a horizontal back seam, that's easy to fix.
clipped V8571
Overall the dress is probably a size too big on the bottom, and possibly in the bust too. That would be easy to fix.

clipped V8571

How to fix the too low underbust seam???

Plan A:  Cut off the armhole binding, undo the facing at the shoulder seam, resew the shoulder seam with  additional 1" SA, resew the facing in that area.  Fine tune the fit in the bodice and along the side seams.  Rebind the armhole.

Pros to plan A:  This raises the neckline so it is not as low. The armhole gets rebound and finished properly..

Cons to plan A:  front and back are no longer symmetrical with an additional 1" SA so it's probably not as easy as "just sew it straight across".    The shoulder width might be too narrow.

Plan B:  Sew bodice to the skirt with additional 1" SA.

Pros:  I don't have to mess with my facings at the neckline.  The armhole is the same size as it currently is.

Cons:  I still have to fix the shoulder seam binding.  The neckline stays the same, which is a tad too low.  Bodice and skirt at this seam probably wouldn't match.

Plan C:  I have enough of this fabric that I could, cough cough, cut a new bodice, neckband and facings with basically the size 8 at the shoulder seam and size 8 neckline....

Pros:  This would fix the majority of issues

Cons:  Well, "throwing away" all the work I already did with the neckline facing, gathering the bustline so nicely, etc.   And that was a lot of hours.

Which would you choose?  Are there any options I haven't thought of???

Be well!